Northern Baja has a host of hidden gems— surf at k55, top-notch gourmet cuisine and excellent wines in the Valle de Guadalupe region, fish mongers and markets in Ensenada, and dig-your-own thermal hot-pool at low-tide in San Felipe on the Sea of Cortez.
We took our converted Promaster Van, dubbed the “VanDamme,” and headed south from San Diego for a week of indulgence (before the CoronaVirus pandemic had taken a stronghold in the U.S.). We crossed the border in Tijuana and drove the beautiful coastline on Route 1 before heading east and inland into Valle de Guadalupe (only 70 miles south of the San Diego border). For those of you who have not been, or who are unfamiliar with this area, it is THE destination for food and wine in Mexico right now. The region has exploded in popularity in the recent years and it is obvious that money, care, and talent has been invested into the area to create a unique new international destination. We were very impressed with the wine grown here, the multitude of dining destinations from both renowned and up-and-coming chefs, and the unique posh glamping experiences at low costs to travelers.
IG explorevdg
Cuatro Cuatros
A destination spot with cabanas for rent nestled among their vineyard, their own restaurante Arsénico, and sweeping views of the Pacific coast from arguably the best vantage point at their cliffside Bar Bura.
We pulled in on a bright, sunny March day and headed for some comida at the recently launched restaurant, Arsénico — just opened in September of last year.
“It’s a restaurant inspired by the desert land, sheltered between mountains, vineyards, and sea, where during the day the air from the ocean is breathed, and in the evening the shadow of a low sun is shrouded into a natural refuge impregnated with the essence of exquisite flavors.” ~Cuatro Cuatros
The food here is original Baja-Mexican gastronomy headlined by Chef Lucho Martinez Burelo (IG @thisislucho) and run with Chef Diego Alvarado (IG @__diegoalvarado). Chef Lucho has worked in restaurants such as Quintonil, Máximo, Mia Domenicca and today he’s a partner of Edo Kobayashi, launching the rising gastronomic star Emilia in Mexico City (IG @emiliarest), a restaurant with a minimalist atmosphere with ingredient-oriented cuisine.
At Arsénico, the menu was neither pretentious nor uninvolved. We ordered several dishes, but my favorites were the tacos de lechón with salsa verde and freshly made blue corn tortillas, and the yellowtail crudo with yuzu casera, nori, and spring onion.
The pork in their tacos was so succulent and smoky it tasted like it was straight off a spit out-back. It was crispy with hot fat that melted in your mouth, everything that you’d want fresh roasted pork to taste like. The dish was simple, served with only pickled onions, a house-made tomatillo salsa, micro cilantro and notably fresh earthy blue corn tortillas. The flavor of the blue corn and the pork really shined through. Hands down some of the best tortillas I’ve ever tasted.
The yellowtail crudo had unexpected, but welcome flavors to me. The acidity of their house-made yuzu provided the backdrop of the dish and softened the raw fish, but their choice of seaweed combined with the fresh crunch and healthy dose of spring onions, mixed with some aji pepper and quinoa provided the bold umami and savory flavor that rounded out the dish. Unique and delicious.
Next, we toured the vineyards and must note that they had some very interesting architectural pieces and design to their spaces. Some of their bathrooms and buildings are sunken into the ground, so as not to take away from the view of the vines. I thought it was brilliant idea that really emphasized where they wanted your eye to travel, which was over the landscape and to not be interrupted by buildings. They also had an area with old wooden ships turned into bars with a large outdoor kitchen and entertainment area to rent for weddings or special celebrations.
We found our way to their outdoor tasting room where we inquired about their rooftop cliffside bar, Bar Bura. There is only one way up to this great location and that is on Cuatro Cuatros own shuttles, costing $15 USD for the pair of us. A short winding drive upwards and towards the coast and you arrive to this majestic, serene spot. The view and the vibe was well worth the money to venture there. Since it was a weekend, they had a dj playing and the bar and tables were full but not packed. We were immediately greeted and sat by waitstaff at a great spot upfront to look out over the Pacific. We decided to change it up from wine and ordered their house margarita, con sal, of course. They offered the same menu as Arsénico here, but I was glad that we had opted to dine in at their restaurant— completely different vibe. Bar Bura was hopping, and though we were really feeling it and wanting to stay… we had a dinner party with Your Secret Supper to attend at Finca la Carrodilla (post on this amazing secret supper club to come!)
